Friday, March 28, 2014

The last few weeks to Santiago

I have neglected this blog for a while and am going to have to blame it on having a lack of free time. Obviously that is going to be questioned instantly by people who spend their time doing actual jobs, but it is true. I have always had an abundance of time until this trip and I have no idea where it all went.

Anyway, we have arrived in Santiago, where, due to a terrible allocation of personal space, almost half the population of Chile live. Using the very precise finger-thumb distance estimation technique we are approximately a third of the way through our trip having now clocked a little over 4000 kilometres.

Having abandoned these updates for over 3 weeks, and in the hope of not boring myself and the 12 people who read this I will have to try to give a brief account of our travels, rather than the detailed and illuminating portrayals of previous posts.



We spent another week in Argentina, meeting up with Dallas again and making repeatedly unsuccessful attempts at fishing. I learned new meanings for the words floaters and sinkers, tried using premium steak as bait and repeatedly fell into rivers; all to no avail. We were of course predominantly cycling rather than fishing, making our way through the 'Siete lagos' region, which, oddly enough has 7 very nice lakes in it.

Soon enough we had our wheels pointed back towards Chile. The elements seemed to be conspiring to keep us in Argentina as the wind battered us head on and the road reduced from asphalt to sand. We spent a cold night on the border and, with the expected steep climbs not materializing the following day enjoyed an incredible 70 kilometers of downhill all the way to Pucon. While the Argentina we had left behind us was essentially a desert, within 5 minutes of Chile we were amid lush fields lined with blackberry bushes and in half a day as wet as two beavers.

We were hosted, just out of town by Anna's friend Lauren in a kayak hostel. The following day we traded our bikes for kayaks and had possibly the most fun anyone ever had - get ready for mattandannapaddletheamazon2015.

With a deadline to get to the capital we had to map a more direct course North and get through some less excited kilometers on the Pan American highway heading straight up the backbone of Chile. The first 2 days were uneventful, the view mainly consisting of cars, trucks and a vast assortment of road kill. It was the start of a week in which we have seen more dead animals than a butcher.

The third day on the highway began a catalogue of errors which were, almost entirely, my fault.
First the lock obstinately refused to open one morning and we had to go in search of a power tool. Then, as we were leaving the service station I had the bright idea of inflating our tyres to much higher, and it turns out, not recommended levels. 200metres down the road Anna's front tyre dramatically exploded. Amid all this excitement I forgot to drink any water and spent the next 2 days vomiting in bushes and cowering in the shade at every opportunity. Oh yeah, and a few days prior to all this our camera broke due to an excess amount of dew penetrating through the walls of our tent and saturating our camera bag.

Despite these minor setbacks we continued on, heading away from the highway and towards the ocean. We arrived in the sea town of Cobquecura two days later and after heading to the beach to see some sealions were feeling happy and excited about the prospects of the next few days cycling up the coast. 2 hours later, after having snapped the valve off Anna's inner tube, and without any spares left, I was sitting on the ground and sulking with no prospect of going anywhere at all.

Unable to buy a new innertube anywhere we resigned ourselves to staying in town and spent the following day travelling (by bus) 100 kilometers back the way we had come to Chillan, a city I had decided not to bother going to because we didn't need to buy anything. We found tubes and had a surprisingly positive day eating our way through the city.

 We continued up the coast for two more days before heading back inland making tracks towards the big city. We were soon back on the main highway, and as we approached Santiago, the road kill got to such levels it felt like we were cycling through a very busy abattoir. The final morning into the city was generally a melee of screaming, at buses and cars, but mainly at each other. But we survived to meet up with Mateus and Camilla our amazing couchsurfing hosts for the next few nights.

We have a few days getting things sorted before we head towards the next Andes pass, a terrifyingly high 3800metres.

Monday, March 3, 2014

Reflections and rats

As I sit in a hotel room, scrubbed clean, hair shaven and back cushioned, it seems to be a good time to reflect on the last 2 months and 2700 kms of cycling. After a month without a roof over our heads my generous brother has put us up for the night in a hotel boasting 3 very sizeable stars. We are making sure to get our moneys worth. Hours of washing revealed selectively tanned bodies, beautifully bronzed calfs and arms, and blindingly white feet, chests and bottoms. Complimentary breakfast this morning was a long affair as we ploughed our way through piles of pastries and loaded pockets with jam as the waiters looked on with what could have been great admiration.

After being described this week as "a third world santa" I decided that the facial hair had to go. Although offering tasty morsels of food for snacking throughout the day it also started to get up my nose when I was cycling. I reached for the razor and trusted Anna with some hotel scissors. Anna immediately remarked that my nose and ears are now too big for my face, but Granny Viets is very appreciative.

While the first month is a blurred memory of wind and tears, the second has been superb. We left the Carraterra Austral last week, a beautiful road through the south of Chile that takes you through some incredible places. Campsites in the middle of nowhere present themselves each night and, with no light pollution, the night sky is indescribable (by me). It is a hugely popular cycling route and we met people from all over the world, on all sorts of trips. Chileans with two weeks off, people away for 6 months and some who have been cycling for 7, 8 and 9 years.

Last Week
On leaving Futaleufu we spent a silky smooth 10kms cycling on pavement to the border, only to find to our dismay that the road onwards was a dusty, gravelly mess heading out of the mountains and into the desert. At times like these its nice to pop the headphones in and listen to an audiobook, perhaps the soothing voice of Stephen Fry as he narrates the adventures of Harry, Ron and Hermione. Sadly, for me at least this is no longer possible. On finding a washing machine last week Anna gleefully threw in her clothes, my clothes, and; perhaps caught in the excitement of the moment, many of my other possessions. Despite a night in a bag of rice, my mp3 player is no more. Free of distraction we made it through the day and arrived in Trevelin, a bizarre place where the local map and some road signs are written in Welsh. I have no idea why.

A couple of days into Argentina we headed through the national park de los Alerces, a beautiful area by day, and a slightly terrifying one by night. Due to the pollination of a certain plant the rat population has boomed, bringing with it the much publicized Hanta virus. All camping within the park has been banned and everything is closed down. On talking to the park ranger on where to camp further on he offered this small piece of advice - "keep everything in your tent..... and pray". Although the rats spent all night scuttling around us, happily they didn't start gnawing our tent or us
and we survived, virus free.

As we progressed northward we hit busy main roads for the first time and it was terrifying. As the VietNam cycling veteran Anna continued cycling nonchalantly, I jumped from the road with every passing car and look forward to covering myself in fluorescent clothes and flashing lights in the near future.

Three more days of foraging fruit trees, sun, busy roads, a swim, a magic show and we arrived in San Carlos de Bariloche.